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sewing clothes
Anyone who has discovered the joys of sewing will sooner or later want to sew women's, children's, or men's clothing. But there are a few things to consider – from choosing the right pattern and fabric to working with stretchy materials. In my blog posts, you'll learn all the basics of sewing garment patterns.
First basics
In the following blog posts you will find exciting information so you can get started with your bag right away!
Understanding sewing patterns
Print the pattern correctly, cut it out, and choose the appropriate size.
The sewing pattern is the foundation of every garment. It determines the shape, fit, and style. Especially for beginners, it's crucial to prepare the pattern carefully before sewing the first seam. Don't rely on your usual size; instead, take accurate measurements beforehand. Adjusting the pattern to your body shape after printing is essential. Therefore, particularly with more complex patterns, it's important to always sew a test garment and make all necessary adjustments until everything fits perfectly.
Children's and baby clothing, where fit isn't as critical, is easier to make. This is also one reason why most sewers start with this.
You can find an introduction to the structure of sewing patterns in my blog post. If you are still unsure about certain terms related to sewing patterns, you can always look them up in my sewing glossary.
Materials science
Which fabrics are best for sewing your project?
The choice of fabric determines how your finished garment drapes, feels, and looks. Especially in the beginning, it's important to choose materials that are easy to work with.
For beginners, firm, non-stretch fabrics (so-called woven fabrics) are best. They are less prone to slipping and can be cut precisely. These include cotton, poplin, linen, or lightweight denim. These materials are perfect for skirts, shirts, dresses, or blouses.
Once you feel more confident, you can try stretchy fabrics – such as jersey, French terry, or sweatshirt fleece. These are soft, comfortable to wear, and perfect for casual wear like T-shirts, hoodies, or dresses with added stretch.
Viscose and muslin are also lovely alternatives. Viscose is flowing and ideal for summer dresses, while muslin is wonderfully soft and forgiving of minor sewing mistakes.
When buying fabric, always pay attention to the recommendations in the pattern: it usually states which types of fabric are suitable. If you deviate from these recommendations, the fit may change.
You can find more information about the different fabrics and their processing in my blog post:
The cut
Cutting stretchy fabrics
Stretchy fabrics are wonderfully comfortable, but can be a bit of a challenge when cutting them. To prevent distortion or stretching, you should keep a few things in mind.
Always lay your fabric flat and smooth on a cutting mat. Avoid letting it hang over the edge of the table – its own weight could stretch the fabric. When working with jersey, sweatshirt fleece, or viscose, a rotary cutter is recommended instead of fabric scissors. This allows you to cut more precisely along the edge without lifting the fabric. Seam and hem allowances are often not included in garment patterns. Check beforehand whether you need to add them.
When cutting, pay close attention to the grain. For stretchy fabrics, this usually runs parallel to the selvedge, or – for knitted fabrics – along the stitches. Only if you cut the fabric along the correct grain will the finished garment fit well and not distort.
Don't use pins to hold the pattern pieces in place; use fabric clips instead. Pins can stretch the fabric or leave small holes. And most importantly: work calmly. The less you pull or shift the fabric, the cleaner your cut edges will be.
Sewing clothing fabrics
When sewing clothes, the correct interplay of needle, stitch, and technique is crucial. You should use different settings depending on the type of fabric.
For woven fabrics (e.g., cotton, linen, or denim), universal needles in size 80–100 and a stitch length of 2–2.5 mm are suitable. Use a straight stitch to sew the pieces together and then finish the edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch to prevent fraying.
For stretchy fabrics, you'll need jersey or stretch needles, as they have a rounded tip and won't damage the knit. Use an elastic stitch (zigzag, overlock, or triple straight stitch) so the seam stretches with the fabric. A seam that's too tight could tear when you put the garment on.
When sewing stretchy fabrics, it also helps to guide the fabric gently, but not to pull it. Let the machine do the work – this will prevent wavy seams.
If you own an overlock machine, you can process stretchy fabrics particularly neatly and professionally. It sews, cuts, and finishes the edges in one step. But you can also achieve great results with a regular sewing machine if you choose the right settings.
💡 Tip: Sew a few test seams on fabric scraps before every project. This way you can immediately see if the stitch length, tension, and needle are right. This saves you time and frustration – and ensures perfect results.
Have fun sewing and experimenting!
